membership edit and renew links do not show with proper permissions set
According to the docs, you need
For users who need to create and/or edit membership records - assign the edit memberships permission, the edit contributions permission if payments are involved and make sure the user has edit contact permission for the associated contact record.
I have both set. See related SE issue: https://civicrm.stackexchange.com/questions/38001/what-permissions-are-needed-to-renew-memberships-in-back-end
I have de-activated CiviCRM Admin Utilities, ACL for Activity Types without effect.
It is important to note this behavior as a workaround for editng the membership:
This is the view membership url when you go to the member tab.
Switch the 'view' to 'update' like so. Now you can edit the membership status.
So what this says is is a permission issue with the edit and renew buttons.
On Civi 5.31.0 and WP 5.5.3.